5 Ways To Buy A Three-Season Suit

With frost coming, your tailoring needs a cold-weather tweak. But cosy suiting isn’t wise if your office comes with central heating. In our mod con world, buying a suit specifically for three months of the year is an expense that can leave you sweating. Instead, you need fabrics suitable from autumn to spring, so you don’t have to shell out every time the seasons switch.

Worsted Wool

Wool is nature’s weather-beater. The fibres trap heat, but also encourage airflow, so you stay cool even when transitioning from commute to overheated office.
But weight is crucial, says Julian Fuller, head of menswear design at Debenhams. “The ideal is 280g to 300g Super-100s wool.” You won’t bake, but it’s still heavy enough that you’ll only need an overcoat when the weather turns.
The S number refers to the fabric’s fineness – the higher the number, the more delicate (and less hard-wearing) the material. Super-100s means you won’t wear the trousers out by new year. For extra versatility, a three-piece offers additional protection against snow, but you can ditch the waistcoat if the sun comes back out.
Elverton 4ply Worsted Wool Suit, available at Chester Barrie, priced from £995.

 

Merino

Shorn from the eponymous sheep, merino is not only finer than ordinary wool – which makes it super-soft – but also practical. “Merino wool helps to regulate temperature,” says Stuart McCullough, managing director of Woolmark, since it ensures heat escapes when it’s hot, but not when the mercury drops. It’s also springy enough to withstand an afternoon on the back of your chair – should you misjudge the temperature – without creasing.
To ensure the style is as adaptable as the construction, steer classic. A dark grey version will work from bare trees until daffodils pop up, so long as you adjust your accessories; think texture in winter and colour for spring.
This charcoal two-piece by T.M.Lewin features a modern silhouette and 100 per cent merino construction, making it appropriate from equinox to equinox.
Banbury Charcoal Tonic Two-Button Slim-Fit Suit, available at T.M.Lewin, priced £199.

 

Flannel

Flannel is wool brushed with metal combs, which lifts the fabric to give its distinctive texture. This makes it ideal for winter suits, since the raised nap traps heat and lends your tailoring a touch of texture. Traditionally you’d opt for monochrome, but playing with pattern modernises your look.
“Checks and tweeds are returning to the fore this winter,” says McCullough. “It’s great to see them modernised through lighter cloths and contemporary structures.”
For three-season versatility, stick to light shades and midweight fabrics. Soft greys will keep you looking fresh and airy year-round.
Crosby Suit In Windowpane Italian flannel, available at J.Crew, priced £650.

 

Wool-Cashmere Blend

Cashmere is ideal for the colder months, since it’s warm without adding weight. But because the fabric is hand-picked from the eponymous goat’s winter coat, rustling up enough for a suit is costly. Your compromise? Mix in wool for something more versatile.
To pick quality from filler, look for natural fibres and a semi-plain design, says Chris Modoo, creative and buying manager at Savile Row’s Chester Barrie. Because cashmere traps heat, stick to a medium weight to stay warm when it’s frosty without cooking on your commute.
Single-Breasted Pick-And-Pick Suit, available at Oliver Brown, priced £395.

 

Wool-Mohair Blend

“Natural fibres breath in the summer and keep you warm in the winter, so wool is the obvious choice,” says Fuller. “But adding mohair gives a natural crease-free finish.” It also gives your suiting a subtle sheen, so your look pops even when it’s dark out. A touch of colour helps here, too.
“Midnight blue is timeless, and much more sophisticated than black,” says Fuller. Just keep your accessories in the same family and create contrast through texture – a cashmere or flannel navy tie will give your look visual depth, and ensure you don’t veer into footballer-style shine.
Strong Blue Wool & Mohair Hyde Suit, available at Richard James, priced £845.

How To Buy Better Quality Men's Clothing

There’s a somewhat confusing – some might say cloak and dagger – relationship between price and quality when it comes to clothing.

Bulging marketing budgets, elaborate shop fittings and slick ad campaigns can whack a hefty premium on top of what you buy, with many big-name brands marking up their products by up to 500 per cent. Add to that a staggering array of fabrics, finishes and details and it’s little wonder we can’t tell if what we’re buying is actually worth the money.

The golden rule to not getting caught out? Never use price as a guide. Chances are you’ve worked hard for the cash so what’s the point in coughing up for subpar wares? This is our bible for finding top-notch clothing and accessories that are built to last.

Materials: Know Your Stuff

While a punchy colour or tongue-in-cheek print might draw you in, fabric is the first thing to check once you get up close and personal with a potential purchase. What a garment’s made from is one of the major factors in determining the number that ends up on its price tag, so if you’re about to shell out over £100 for an acrylic cardigan or pleather bag, it’s time to wake up and smell the coffee.

When it comes to knitwear, quality sheep’s wool, cashmere, linen and silk are all worth splashing out on, while acrylic, nylon and viscose should be avoided if you’re spending top whack.

A quality cashmere jumper will always be a wise investmentWHISTLES AW14

Cotton sits somewhere in the middle; it’s best to feel the fabric in person, as value for money can vary hugely between brands. For unbeatable softness, look for fine gauge knitwear and keep an eye out for Egyptian cotton, Pima cotton (which has longer fibres and won’t bobble or break apart as easily) and Sea Island cotton (one of the softest and sturdiest cottons available). James Perse, Sunspel and John Smedley are just some of the key brands which specialise in knitwear and tees crafted from these high-end fabrics.

Egyptian, Pima and Sea Island cotton pieces are supremely soft and durableSUNSPEL SEA ISLAND COTTON T-SHIRT

Also keep an eye out for: mercerised cotton, which has a finer feel and is more lustrous and resistant to shrinkage due to chemical washes, and merino wool, which is fantastically soft as well as temperature-regulating and moisture-wicking.

Synthetic fabrics – being specifically developed to withstand wear and tear – shouldn’t be automatically shunned. Ideal for coats and jackets made for braving the elements, outerwear crafted from synthetic materials is often lightweight, wind and water-resistant, breathable, and even reflective. Which would you rather brave a British storm in: a cashmere overcoat or a hooded nylon jacket? We rest our case.

Look to the likes of Moncler, Stone Island and Arc’teryx for man-made materials that are worth the expense.

Man-made fabrics are ideal for tackling the elements, making them great for outerwearSTONE ISLAND AW15

 

Don’t Shop Blind

Ultimately, when it comes to materials, bricks and mortar shopping will always have the edge over buying online. Go into stores, touch fabrics, see how they hang on you, and hold them up against each other to compare and contrast.

Yes, purchasing online is convenient but filling out a returns form and waiting in a post office queue isn’t everyone’s idea of a fun lunch break. Unless you already have a good idea of how an item fits and its fabrication, swap cyberspace for old-school shopping.

Touching and inspecting garments in store makes it easier to gauge quality

 

Scrunch Time

Try deploying the ‘scrunch’ test: use your hand to scrunch up an area of the garment and then release. If the wrinkles that initially form don’t disappear and the fabric doesn’t return to its initially smooth appearance, there’s every chance that the quality might not be up to scratch – though bear in mind certain materials (linen, rayon) will crease more easily than others.

And if you’re buying leather, try giving it a shallow scratch with your fingernail; if the scratch holds (it can still be rubbed away with a slightly moistened finger afterwards), then you know it’s going to be soft and pliable.

The ‘scrunch’ test is a good indicator of fabric quality

 

The Importance Of Provenance

Few of us really know how or where our clothes are actually made, and the country of origin tag can be a clue as to whether the item was mass-produced in a factory, or hand-shirred by artisans. ‘Clue’ is the operative word here – just because something was made in the Far East doesn’t mean it’s bound to fall to pieces. Consider country of origin a rule of thumb, rather than one that’s hard and fast.

For tailoring, shirting, shoes and leather accessories, Italy is in many respects the padre of manufacturers. The brands that produce their clothes there, from Prada to Bottega Veneta, make use of premium raw materials that come out of the country’s mills, supported by years of production expertise.

VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO ITALIAN FABRIC MILL

But just because something’s dall’Italia, doesn’t mean it’s always artisan-crafted in an atelier. The region is also home to well-known yet secretive suppliers such as Staff International and Pier SPA, who make clothing for multiple top-tier brands (Staff famously manufactures for luxury labels Margiela, Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs) which, while good quality, might be more mass-produced than the price tags would lead you to believe.

In contrast, the UK has lost much of its manufacturing clout over the years, with only a small number of larger factories still in operation. This means if you see a ‘Made in UK’ label, you can rest assured it probably hasn’t been produced in vast quantities – not that this alone is a guarantee of quality manufacturing.

Many labels such as Private White V.C., Alan Paine, Hiut Denim, John Smedley and evenDr. Martens and New Balance still produce top-notch wares in these isles.

PRIVATE WHITE V.C. AW15

Likewise, a ‘Made in the USA’ label often means quality, from the excellent woollen wares of Pendleton to Schott’s buttery soft leather biker jackets. Thanks to the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC) strict policies on the usage of the ‘Made in the USA’ label, brands really need to prove their provenance to (legally) use the tag on their wares.

Other renowned US-made brands include Filson, The Hill-Side, Quoddy, Red Wing,Wolverine and Rag & Bone.

SCHOTT NYC AW15

Elsewhere, Japan and France boast legions of craftspeople, while Spain and Portugal are proving to be globally successful purveyors of quality shoes and accessories.

As you might expect, China and India – especially when coupled with a suspiciously inexpensive price tag – is often still a marker of subpar craftsmanship, not to mention unethical working conditions for factory workers.

That said, there are plenty of exceptions, with brands like Feit and even US luxury playerCoach using exceptional Chinese craftsmanship to produce at a fraction of the price it costs to manufacture in the west.

FEIT 2015

 

Is It Well Built?

To the untrained eye, there might not be much separating a plain black £10 cardigan from a plain black £100 one. But the seams should give something away. Try lightly tugging or pulling at them to see if there’s any give; if there is, it’s a bad sign that the garment might’ve been hastily or cheaply constructed.

Generally, you want to hunt out items with tighter, closer, evenly spaced stitches, as this usually means they’re better made and will last longer. Similarly, if there’s any fraying threads on an item before you buy it, step away swiftly.

On items with ribbing, like sweatshirts, bomber jackets and the collars and cuffs of knitwear, give them a gentle tug; if they stretch or sag and don’t spring back, you might want to think twice.

And if the piece in question is patterned, the pattern should match up at the seams; not only does this look a lot better, but it shows that adequate care has been taken in producing the garment.

Always pay attention to the stitching

 

Don’t Be Tempted

It’s easy to get dazzled by an in-store celebrity endorsement, one-day flash sale or a limited time offer, but buying on impulse isn’t great logic for making sound investments.

If there’s something you’re dying to get your hands on, try stalling for 30 days and then re-evaluate. If you’ve forgotten about it, then you probably don’t need it. If you’ve decided you definitely can’t live without it, then make sure it’s worth the money.

Ask questions (where was it made? Can you find a similar, better-quality item elsewhere?) and do your homework by scoping out the style online if possible. Googling the item, or similar pieces from the same brand, can help you find forums (like our own) or site reviews chock full of insight worth taking into account.

Top 10 Distressed Jeans For Men

Beaten-up and broken-in, that’s the theme of this season’s denim, which comes packing rock ‘n’ roll vibes.
From shredded legs to neat knee slices, distressed denim is available in a whole host of forms, running the gamut from authentic workerwear styles to designs you’d expect to see on Sid Vicious.
In the market for a rough and ready pair of jeans for the months ahead? Check out ten of our favourites:

1. Nudie Jeans Steady Eddie Fredrik Replica Jeans

Want an authentic pair of worn-in jeans without having to go through the process yourself? Step forward Nudie Jeans.
The Swedish label’s Steady Eddie Replica model is based on a style worn by a chap named Fredrik for 18 months, meaning the abrasions and ripped detailing feels completely natural.
Coming in a versatile grey tone selvedge, they’re sure to match with everything else in your off-duty wardrobe. Try teaming with a plaid flannel shirt, padded parka and pair of Red Wings for a look that’s ready to deal with whatever Mother Nature throws at you.
Available at Nudie Jeans, priced £230.

 

2. Edwin Jeans ED-55 Relaxed Tapered-Fit Bronco

For a more subtle scattering of rips, opt for this deep blue pair from Japanese specialist Edwin.
Crafted from high quality 12oz denim, they come in a loose fit that tapers from the knee to ensure they feel relaxed and comfortable, not sloppy. We see these becoming our weekend go-tos once the weather turns.
Available at ASOS, priced £110.

 

3. Antioch Black Ripped Skinny Jeans

Prepare to relive your grungy teenage phase thanks to these jeans by London-based menswear label Antioch.
By adding rips and cuts to a simple pair of black skinnies, the brand has embraced the days of long fringes and obscure band tees, while keeping things fresh and modern with a slimline silhouette.
Available at Topman, priced £48.

 

4. AllSaints Keiko Cigarette Jeans

Edgy British brand AllSaints has taken a pared-back approach to its signature Cigarette jeans this season, opting for minimal fading and just two slashes to the knees.
With such subtle distressing, these are easily dressed up with a button-down shirt, leather jacket and Chelsea boots for a night out.
Available at AllSaints, priced £98.

 

5. Levi’s 1969 606 Highlander Jeans

Even Levi’s can’t resist getting in on the action, and the heritage denim label is well placed to take on the trend with its Vintage 606 model.
At the time of being introduced in the 1960s, it was considered to be the first skinny jean style in production. The streamlined silhouette remains the same today, finished off with a lone rip to the knee.
Available at Levi’s, priced £165.

 

6. Cheap Monday Tight Rip Black Jeans

Renowned for its affordable skinny jeans, Swedish label Cheap Monday has slashed the knees on its signature fit for autumn/winter 2015.
Cut from over-dyed black stretch denim, the five pocket style also features antique finish rivets and buttons for a vintage feel.
Available at Cheap Monday, priced £55.

 

7. Diesel Tepphar 0830K Carrot Jeans

Diesel’s Tepphar jeans are destroyed in all the right ways. In addition to looking like they’ve gained their rips from a few hard days’ work, the low crotch and short front fly gives them a relaxed, authentic finish.
Slip on with a plain tee and leather boots for an everyday workerwear aesthetic.
Available at Diesel, priced £220.

 

8. Zara Ripped Jeans

If you’re worried about feeling the chill while sporting holes, seek out a pair with ripped panels – like this pair from Zara.
The cutouts are backed with black fabric, offering the same distressed effect without revealing any skin. We’re also fond of the washed out grey shade, which works perfectly alongside an autumnal colour palette.
Available at Zara, priced £39.99.

 

9. Dr Denim Snap Light Stone Destroyed Jeans

Family-owned label Dr Denim has been turning out stylish and affordable jeans since 2004.
The Swedish firm’s take on ripped jeans is no different with a sharp drainpipe leg and bold slices to the knees resulting in a solid wardrobe go-to for the coming months. The unisex Snap style can also be sized up for a more relaxed fit.
Available at Dr Denim, priced £50.

 

10. ASOS Skinny Jeans with Knee Rips

White jeans in winter are almost guaranteed to get a little bit dirty and beaten up, so start the ball rolling with this pre-ripped pair from ASOS’ in-house design team.
The frayed detailing adds to the effortless vibe, while the stretch denim guarantees comfort and a snug fit.
Available at ASOS, priced £28.

How To Buy Entry-level Luxury Goods

Aspiration is little solace in the face of a red-nudging bank balance. Though what exactly goes into a luxury object’s eye-watering price tag is unclear, trust that it’s not just parts and labour. But before you look up kidney prices on eBay, know that you can buy into your favourite brand on a budget.

From the entry-level garments that mark the brand at its best, to affordable accessories, or the diffusion line with a distinct identity beyond ‘cut-price’, these are the pieces that get you behind the velvet rope. Without shaking out your pockets first.

Acne Studios – College Sweatshirt

Sweatshirts are probably the thing that Acne Studios do better than anything else. Not only do they encapsulate the brand’s ethos of easy wearability but they also express that peculiarly Scandinavian, less is more approach to dressing.

The college sweatshirt is the key buy here; it comes in a range of colours but only one classic fit. Best of all you can wear it with pretty much anything.

Available at Mr Porter, priced £130.

Saint Laurent – Cross Bracelet

Saint Laurent has rock ‘n’ roll running through its veins, but key pieces from Hedi Slimane’s collections (leather trousers and Cuban heeled boots) are hard for most people to pull off, both aesthetically and financially.

This delicate leather bracelet is subtle enough to work with most outfits but distinctive enough to obviously be part of Hedi’s rock ‘n’ roll legacy.

Available at MATCHESFASHION.COM, priced £85.

AMI – Breton Top

Classic French fashion staples exist somewhere beyond the realm of trends and therefore remain perpetually stylish.

While Alexendre Matiussi might be most famous for his AMI logo interpretation of the tricolour, this simple Breton top is even more French than red, white and blue stripes andscores you a versatile wardrobe staple. All for under £100.

Pair it with jeans and trainers for the ultimate in off-duty chic.

Available at Mr Porter, priced £95.

Gucci – Belt

Gucci’s most recent, 1970s-inspired collection was good enough to draw comparisons to Tom Ford’s tenure at the brand. In fact, Gucci look set to reclaim their position at the top of the fashion food chain, in part thanks to an ostentatious approaching to branding.

It’s not one for anyone who lives for understated dressing; buying into Gucci means logos, logos and more logos. That makes the clever choice a belt with interlocking Gs – a classic Gucci item reimagined for the current nostalgia trip.

Available at MATCHESFASHION.COM, priced £190.

Maison Kitsuné – Parisien T-Shirt

The record label-cum-fashion house has turned reworking preppy classics into an art form.

If you’re not French then Maison Kitsuné are here to help you pretend that you are, with a handy slogan declaring yourself a ‘Parisien’. If you paid attention in French class you might just be able to pull this one off. It’s Americana, but with a dash of Gallic humour.

Available at MATCHESFASHION.COM, priced £47.

Comme Des Garçons – PLAY Converse

In the last few years the designer collab trainer has become an industry unto itself. With some team-ups pushing prices into the nosebleed hundreds, the element of affordability has seemingly been abandoned.

Thankfully, the ubiquitous Converse is collaborating with avant-garde Japanese label Comme Des Garçons. The PLAY label’s ‘heart with eyes’ logo has become iconic in its own right, but it’s never looked better than it does on the side of a Chuck Taylor.

Available at Selfridges, priced £84.99.

Bottega Veneta – Card Holder

Few brands revel in unabashed luxury like Bottega Veneta. The Italian brand has become synonymous with intrecciato leather, an ancient technique of weaving thin strips of leather together to form a new textured material.

This lengthy and time-consuming process means that the end product is always expensive, but to get some Bottega Veneta into your wardrobe the best bet is with a wallet or card holder. Which will at least leave you something to store inside it.

Available at Mr Porter, priced £170.

5 Best Designer Suits For Men

Paul Smith London Soho Pin Dot Suit

A smart addition to your formal repertoire, the Soho suit from Paul Smith London has been luxuriously crafted with pure wool and boasts a dapper pin dot design with sophisticated detailing including notched lapels, a chest pocket and double vented hem. Simply partner with a crisp white shirt and polished shoes to complete the look.

Available at Harrods, priced $745.00

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TOM FORD O’Connor Houndstooth Suit

Exude sophistication in your formal repertoire courtesy of TOM FORD’s O’Connor Houndstooth Suit. Expertly crafted in Italy with the finest wool, it boasts a classic woven design and is complemented with a sleek slim-fit alongside sharp peak lapels, multiple pockets and a double vented hem. Perfect for any smart occasion, simply partner with a crisp white shirt and polished shoes to complete the look

Available at Harrods, priced $3150.00

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Brioni Berne Bold Check Suit

A dapper piece for formal occasions, the Berne suit from Brioni has been luxuriously crafted in Italy with a wool and silk blend and boasts a bold check design with classic detailing including peak lapels, multiple pockets and a double vented hem. Perfect for pairing with a crisp white shirt and polished shoes.

Available at Harrods, priced $3260.00

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Givenchy Mini Flower Jacquard Tuxedo

Enlivened by a jacquard-woven flower pattern, this Givenchy tuxedo is a sartorial triumph for evening events and special occasions. A masterclass in Italian tailoring, it boasts wing lapels, satin-covered buttons and a trim fit, whilst the matching trousers feature co-ordinating satin side stripes. Simply add a classic shirt and polished shoes.

Available at Harrods, priced $2325.00

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Armani Collezioni Tonal Herringbone Wool Suit

Exude effortless polish at work and formal occasions in Armani Collezioni’s Tonal Herringbone Suit. Crafted in Italy from pure virgin wool, the jacket is accented with notched lapels, flap pockets and handsome double back vents, while the trousers feature a classic pleat front. Perfect to pair with a sharp white shirt and pocket square for contrast.

Available at Harrods, priced $725.00

TOP 5 Tote Bags For Men 2016

Now that the backpack’s seen off the briefcase, it’s time to upgrade your bag arsenal. And the tote should be next on your wishlist. It was one of the dominating trends on AW15 runways, from Bally’s retro interpretation to vintage black leather at Balenciaga and a plethora of colours, fabrics and cuts at Burberry Prorsum.

As ever, designer style has trickled down and you can now grab a luxe tote on the high street too. Although the silhouette doesn’t stray from tradition, materials do. Which means heavy canvas and leather.

The perfect bag has straps short enough to hold by your side without it brushing the floor, but should still be slingable across your shoulder when you’re manhandling a coffee and croissant.

Vintage Luxe

We’re a far cry from the heavily branded products of the early noughties, but there is a certain appeal to a bag with an understated logo. Loewe’s textured leather tote gives off the essence of a hand-made vintage piece rather than an off-the-rack item. “I’m really into the Loewe logo, but as a rule would shy away from big branding. This one is subtle enough,” says Chris Hobbs, menswear fashion editor at MATCHESFASHION.COM.

The modern tote’s key is practicality, and as you’d expect from a house with Loewe’s leather pedigree, this will battle weather and the daily commute admirably. Team it with slim-fit trousers, a crisp shirt, a heritage knit cardigan and a pair of leather brogues for an update to your office wear.

Loewe Textured-Leather Tote, available at Matches Fashion, priced £850.

Briefcase Alternative

You’re not your dad, so update how you get your stuff to work. Reiss’ canvas tote is your basic briefcase re-packaged as a fashion accessory, with exterior and interior pockets so that you can easily organise and store your laptop, iPad, notebook and keys.

“It has spacious compartments, while the leather trim and handles appeal to the more fashion-forward dresser,” says Nick Keyte, head of menswear buying at John Lewis. “The navy colour palette adds an essential day-to-evening versatility.”

Pair with your suit or dress down with a grey sweater and slim-fit flannel trousers.

Reiss Trapper Canvas Tote Bag, available at John Lewis, priced £130.

Urban Print

The current trend for cloth tote bags originates in Japan and works perfectly for the man who’s outgrown the rucksack but doesn’t carry enough on him to warrant a holdall. Don’t let the fabric put you off. Cheap Monday’s tote accessorises with your streetwear, without bruising your wallet.

“Team a monochromatic style with a black overcoat, black jeans, white Oxford shirt and some black and white runners,” says Luke McCarthy, style editor at The Idle Man. “It’s a great mixture of both presentable and street-ready pieces.”

Cheap Monday Tote Bag with Opposites Print, available at The Idle Man, priced £5.

Sustainable Fabric

Catherine Dang’s totes offer laid-back luxury. They’re made of sustainable materials like cork and IKAT fabrics, so you can accessorise with a clean conscience. And because of the technique and the nature of the materials used, each item is slightly different than the next. So you know no one else is biting your style.

The BEECH collection of tote bags comes in grey and white or blue and white stripes. “The grey stripe is probably my favourite,” says menswear stylist and blogger Karlmond Tang, aka Mr.Boy.

“It goes well with denim, goes well with smart trousers or a clean crisp shirt, goes well with a long black coat and a simple black jumper.”

Beech Grey Bag, available at catherinedang.com, priced €215.

Modern Minimalism

Marni’s soft leather totes offer smart design without complicating things. Which makes them super-versatile. The navy tone works with everything else in your wardrobe while the robust handles and detailing should outflank any suggestions that you’ve picked up your girlfriend’s bag by mistake.

It’s also functional, with space for your office essentials and an extra sweater so you can transition straight out in the evening. “Marni’s version is roomy enough for the thousands of things I manage to cram into my bag on a daily basis,” says Hobbs. “I’d wear it over my shoulder – or even in my hand – with my Raey flares, a shrunken knit and Converse trainers.”

Marni Soft Leather Tote, available at Matches Fashion, priced £790.

Men's Jeans Fashion Trends 2016

You already own jeans. Heck, your bedroom floor is probably carpeted in pairs awaiting the washing machine at this very moment. But what you might not realise is that this year has seen a step-change in the wealth of styles available to men with an appetite for quality denim.

So what better time to talk you through the strongest cuts, fits and washes to style out the rest of summer, and the year…

Distressed Denim

In an ideal world, you’d break in your own jeans (or have enough money to pay someone else to do it for you), allowing authentic creases, abrasions, gouges and rips to form naturally over time. But in reality, it’s easier to just pick up a pre-distressed pair already equipped with these said knackered elements which lend a pair of jeans that distinctly laid-back, grunge-infused feel.

This year, you’d be hard pushed to find a retailer who isn’t pedalling this kind of patched up and artfully distressed denim on its shop floor. There are, however, brands that do the 1990s stonewashed thing better than others.

At the upper end, Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren, Levi’s and AllSaints produce quality jeans with exploded knees and just the right number of patches. At the lower, wallet-friendly end of the scale, high street favourites Topman and ASOS are churning out skinny and slim styles that come preloaded with enough rips to suggest you’re capable of manning a cattle ranch or erecting a barn, if required.

Wear yours with a fresh riff on rebellion, like how Saint Laurent styled theirs forautumn/winter 2015, and combine with a neutral tee, pair of Chuck Taylors and bomber jacket for a look that’s put-together but errs on the side of effortlessly cool.

 

Black Denim

Arguably the key trend for 2015 (and 2014, for that matter), monochrome dressing offers the easiest way to pull off double denim, because there’s no confusion about how to clash your colours or washes and what cut of jeans to go for: it’s all about your black skinnies.

The reprisal of the indie rocker and his sophisticated uniform – seen on the likes of Alex Turner and recently reformed The Strokes – has been rolled out onto the runways and into stores, championing black jeans that fit like a snug, testicle-compromising second skin. And with high elastane content, these jeans don’t lose their shape or shift from skinny- to straight-fit after a few rounds with your tumble dryer.

That said, if a stretch skinny style makes you look like you’ve tried to force yourself into sausage casing, then try relaxing the situation by swapping for a pair of slim jeans instead – they’ll look sharp without obstructing blood flow.

You’ll find the best mid-weight options at Cheap Monday, Dr Denim and Weekday, while Nudie, A.P.C. and Acne Studios should be your destinations for heavyweight options, provided you’ve got the budget.

For the full indie/grunge hybrid look, try combining yours with a black denim jacket, plaid shirt and a white/black crew neck tee layered underneath.

Alternatively, if you’re a more refined dresser, use them in place of your smart trousers. Team with a crisp white shirt and blazer/leather jacket, and then finish off with some black penny loafers or Chelsea boots for a smart-casual look that takes just seconds to pull together.

Relaxed Fits

Are we finally set to move away from skinnies? No, probably not. But certain menswear tastemakers would have you believe it’s time to hang ’em up.

It seems as if skinny fatigue has finally set in as a slew of high-end labels (particularly Patrick Grant’s E. Tautz) are making plenty of noise about jeans in wider, looser fits. It’s a trend that looks set to trickle down to the high street, too, with Burton, Next and New Look all including relaxed-leg styles in their new autumn/winter 2015 lookbooks.

We’re still not totally sold on the idea; relaxed fits can go horribly wrong if you don’t invest in the right pair, and can even look a bit ‘dad’ if styled incorrectly. That said, on the right man (read: whippet-thin), they make for a strong ‘anti-fashion’ look.

The key to pulling them off is taking the normcore route – i.e. simplify everything else and stick to wardrobe basics. Wear yours with some hefty turn-ups, get those mankles out, and team with a plain white tee, plimsolls and tough worker shirts for a casual summer vibe.

As we segue into autumn, though, you might want to trial them in a smarter setting, pairing them with a long-sleeved polo shirt and an overcoat.

Light Washes

White jeans were last a ‘thing’ in the mid-2000s when English indie troupe Razorlight was in the charts. But, like Johnny Borrell’s career, they’ve been consigned to obscurity in the years since. For 2015, though, they’re back with a bang and if you’re keen to squeeze the last few drops out of summer looking on-point, you need to grab yourself a pair in a slim-fit, stat.

The freshest, boldest way to wear these is as part of an all-white ensemble. Not only is it a strong option for guys who want to look sharp without having to overthink their morning routine, but it also provides a clean and crisp canvas that sits perfectly against your post-holiday glow. Try teaming with a collarless white shirt and a pair of adidas Stan Smiths for an updated, non-Borrell take on the trend.

Likewise, heavily washed jeans are back on the agenda. A killer way to tap into the appetite for lighter-than-your-average denim for guys who don’t want to commit to full-on icy white, we recently broke down five easy ways you can wear them.

 

Tapered Cuts

The launch of the new Levi’s 501 CT earlier this year has led to an explosion of high street iterations of the oft-overlooked tapered cut. This should come as good news for heavier fellas or those who’ve not been skipping leg day. Why? Because tapered jeans are refreshingly roomy for blokes with big thighs and behinds, but who still want a slice of the streamlined silhouette that skinny- and slim-fits offer.

Not to be confused with the ill-advised carrot-fit that hit the big time a few years back, tapered cuts don’t have the same gratuitous crotch depth and can be worn without running the risk of looking like you’ve just, er, had a bit of an accident. Wear yours in exactly the same way you would a slim or skinny pair (if you could fit in them), but avoid trying to smarten them up too much, as their slightly more relaxed cut steers them more toward the casual side of things.

For the real deal, scoop up a pair of Levi’s CT, or check out Topman and ASOS to trial the trend without committing too much capital upfront.

Low Cost, High Quality Denim

There’s no need to sacrifice a month’s worth of beer money to lay your paws on a pair of high quality jeans. Nowadays, mercifully, there are a number of outlets renowned for constructing jeans in superior denim for a fraction of the price you might pay for a pair from specialists like Levi’s, A.P.C or Nudie.

High street favourites Uniqlo (selvedge denim in a variety of fits and washes, £34.90), Topman (Raw Stretch Selvedge, £45) and Gap (Japanese selvedge, £64.95) have been instrumental in bringing selvedge denim to the masses, ensuring you get true value for money and making it easier than ever to build a quality denim collection.

Final Word