8 Ways To Wear All-Black-Errrthing

There’s a time for vibrancy. Whether it’s last year’s trip through partly garish, fully sick Hawaiian prints, or a pastel tie that brings life to your officewear, the colour wheel spins in-and-out of trend every season. But when you’re tired of wondering whether lemon and mauve go (they do not) know that darker tones always have your back.

Black is always the new black. It’s never a ‘Colour of the Year’ because it’s the lack-of-colour of every year – the shade that won’t clash, won’t add pounds, and won’t tell tales when you pour a glass of Rioja down yourself. It’s as happy at work as in clubs, or shutting down the front row. But it’s happiest in certain staples, the inky workhorses every wardrobe is built on.

Whether you prefer to dabble in darkness, or the deceptively easy (but always effective) all-black-errthing, these are the pieces you need.

Tread Alert

Worn by everyone from the bubbling-up grime MC to the Hoxton art interns that listen to him, all-black leather trainers are on the incline.

Versatility is their strongest asset (they work with any suit, be it tailored or track) but offer some extra benefits: leather is more hard-wearing than suede or canvas and going murdered-out means none of the puddle vigilance and stain buffing that kills the all-white sneaker’s steez.

Opt for a sports brand with plenty of heritage: Reebok Classics, adidas Originals, or the all-black OG, Nike’s Air Max.

Nike Air Max 90 Leather, available at END Clothing, priced £95.

The Darkest Hour

A ‘proper’ watch is no longer the preserve of guys in pinstripe suits. Thanks to brands like Uniform Wares and Larsson & Jennings, the art of Swiss watchmaking has been given a fashion-led makeover – and a murdered-out dial is the blank canvas that works with everything in your wardrobe. Which makes adding an extra zero to your investment easier to justify.

Uniform Wares M42 Chronograph, available at thewatchgallery.com, priced £600.

Socker Punch

An all-black ensemble is no such thing if a misjudged laundry day leaves hot pink separating your trousers and shoes. Think that it doesn’t matter what graces your feet in a morning? Well, you thought wrong.

A few decent pairs of black socks not only feel softer, warmer and generally better quality, but also far outlast any depressing bargain bin you’ve been rummaging in. Think minimalist if you’re tailoring-inclined or sportswear if you live in your jeans.

Supima Cotton Wide Rib Socks, available at Uniqlo, priced £3.60.

Sugar Coated

While shades of camel burn bright on every runway, street corner, bar stool, office coat stand etc., the overcoat crown will always belong to its all-black counterpart.

This winter essential leads a secretive double life: by day, perfectly paired with a city boy suit to crowd blend; by night, a smartened touch to your classic white-tee-and-jeans combo.

Pitch black offerings pack the most punch, yet you can find plenty of strong alternatives in charcoal, dark grey and mottled wool.

Noose & Monkey Wool Overcoat, available at ASOS, priced £180.

Hat Chance

Though you’ll likely never set foot on a fishing boat, the trawlerman’s black beanie has graced many a dry man’s head. Granted, if you’re a corporate nine-to-fiver, turning up with a rib knit cap is hardly the most professional, but it’ll get more wear at the weekend than one would initially presume.

Even top level designers offer their own take (Acne Studios weave beanies from dreams) but exercise overt branding with caution – nobody wants to see a ‘Commes Des F*ckdown’ logo. Ever.

Neighborhood Blues Beanie, available at END Clothing, priced £59.

Back, Pack And Rucksack

In an age of cycle commutes (and homemade lunches towards the backend of payday), a quality rucksack is imperative. An all-black option can be worn daily, and if wisely selected, can act as a further stamp of your style credentials.

On the lower price bracket, you can pick up simple yet sharp options from New Balance, Herschel and Mi-Pac, while luxury leather options can rack up thousands but act as the ultimate smart-casual carrier – Tom Ford, I see you.

Herschel Supply Co. Iona Backpack, available at END Clothing, priced £59.

Brogue Trader

All-leather sneaks most certainly deserve a place in our rundown, but so too does their smarter cousin. Every man should own a decent pair of leather shoes – not only do they fit the bill for every wedding, interview and Bar Mitzvah on the calendar, but we’re increasingly seeing a mixture of casual threads being anchored with more traditional-leaning footwear.

There’s a multitude of choice with brogues, Derbies and loafers, but try and avoid shiny patents; unless you’re in a tuxedo, you’ll just look like an estate agent.

A.P.C. Leather Wingtip Brogues, available at Mr Porter, priced £300.

Bombed Out

No, the bomber jacket isn’t a game-changing new piece. But there’s a reason we keep seeing these season after season. From Yeezy to Yohji Yamamoto, this humble piece has become the go-to casual choice and, like any popular garment, has a price point to suit all.

Classic shapes are being countered with oversized billowy alternatives from the likes of Vetements (one to look out for) to break the status quo – just because you’ve seen it before, doesn’t mean you can’t reinvent.

Lux Black Tencel Bomber Jacket, available at Topman, priced £100.

5 Go-To Light Neutrals Combinations

It’s a bolder statement than Kanye saying his latest album is the greatest ever made, but we’re going out on a limb to say light neutrals are the new black. Now hear us out, we know you’ve enjoyed dressing as a Death Eater through the trials of this bleak winter but, for the coming season, you need to lighten up: put dark colours on the back burner and embrace a lighter palette of sand, caramel and camel. Just as versatile, much less of a downer.

Ironically, it was ‘Ye who drove this look back into the mainstream with his latest Yeezy drop of bedraggled streetwear, but we’re not really interested in dressing like we’re surviving the apocalypse, so here are some less divisive ways of doing it.

Camel Coat + White Jeans

On the surface it sounds a bit of a mental combination, like Only Fools and Horses’ Del Boy meets Razorlight’s Johnny Borrell, but together these pieces offer a fresh (and admittedly 1990s-inspired) take on smart-casual that works a treat.

There’s no denying white jeans are a bit Marmite. Mostly due to the fact that they could miscast you as the kind of Eurotrashy weirdo perched creepily at the margins of a nightclub dancefloor, waiting. Staring. Maybe even licking his lips. Shudder. But by smartening up the rest of your look with a classic Oxford button-down and a pair of sleek trainers or loafers, you’ll come off more American Ivy League than Ibiza weekend warrior.

Be mindful of the fit and details of your denim, though – steer clear of boy-band-reminiscent rips and manhood-comprising skinny fits, if only to guarantee the meat and two veg some comfort. Choose instead a timeless slim fit and, since it’s more of a spring look, ditch the socks and get your mankles out. Just take care that your pin-roll is on-point.

(Related: 5 rules of wearing white jeans)

Beige Suit + White Shirt

Many use the word ‘beige’ as a synonym for boring, but when put across some sharply-cut tailoring, it’s a far cry from flat. Growing weary of your well-worn navy suit? Beige, then – haters be damned – is the antidote.

Flying in the face of the tedium its name connotes, beige is actually a pretty ‘busy’ colour. Which means you’ll be attracting enough attention without going overdrive on your accessories. Steer well clear of loud ties and pocket squares (try complementary solid colour styles in blue, burgundy and darker shades of grey) and err conservative with some classic dress shoes for a grounding base.

We love a good check in a suit, but with beige it’s best to keep it plain. Checks in this type of light-coloured tailoring tend to make you look like your name is Jasper and you split your time between lamenting the expense of running your estate and wearing a gilet for all the wrong reasons.

(Related: How to wear a gilet without looking like a farmer)

However, if you’re interested in injecting your suit fabric with some character, linen is a texture-rich choice and makes for a stellar summer wedding suit, too. Another plus of having a beige suit in your arsenal is that you can rework it as separates in other outfits, which brings us neatly to…

Light Neutral Separates

Tailoring today isn’t what it used to be. Over the past year, tailored separates have come over all casual, slowly but surely edging away from the image of the monocled, moustachioed dandy.

So, if you’re into the idea of paler tailoring but have more of a streetwear thing going on, dial down the formality by swapping the shirt for a crew neck tee, the brogues for trainers, and trying your hand at tonal looks by mixing chinos, trousers and blazers in colours like tan, white and beige.

Limit the tonal approach to two items, though, keeping one piece out of the light neutral spectrum. You’re going for clean and minimal, not earthy B&Q paint chart.

Tan Outerwear + Grey Trousers

If you want to ease yourself into light neutrals, then this is the ideal look to kick off with. Everyone should have a pair of grey tailored trousers or chinos hanging in their wardrobe, whether they’re swiped from a suit or a standalone pair that skews more casual.

One of the best things about grey trousers is that they afford you the opportunity to get experimental with the colour of your footwear. They will – whether stone twill chinos or charcoal wool trousers – pair well with most shades, so feel free to pull on your favourite pair. Provided they’re not Crocs, that is.

(Related: The worst ever men’s shoe trends)

You’ll find tan outerwear in most high street and designer stores, it all just depends on the funds you have to throw at it. From skate-inspired coach jackets to street-ready bombers to dapper overcoats, there are heavy and light layers to suit every lifestyle. Match yours with the smartness of your trews.

Light Neutrals + Contrast Colour

Using light neutrals for the base of your outfit (e.g. trousers, jacket) and adding a contrasting hue such as a statement orange or green can really make this trend pop, especially with the (hopefully) sun-soaked days of spring just round the corner.

The trick here is knowing your limits. For example, a red sweatshirt in a boxy shape or neoprene texture is a resounding yes, whereas a shiny 1980s-esque puffa jacket in lime green is a no. (Always, obviously.) And remember that adding any more than one bright colour instantly kills your look dead.

(Related: How to pick the right colours for your skin tone)

Feeling apprehensive? Dip your toe (literally) in this method by using your shoes to work in a punchy shade. There’s a legion of slick trainers out there in vibrant colours, from burning red adidas Stan Smiths to silver Nike hi-tops. Swish.

 

7 Transitional Pieces That Will Boost Your Spring Wardrobe

The Olive Blazer

Your plate isn’t the only place to fill up on greens. The shade dominated on AW15 runways and lingers, in more muted form, for SS16. For those nervous at the idea of any colour, it’s a way to introduce some brightness without dazzling; an olive blazer over a simple white tee is a shade smarter than your go-to navy option when the sun’s peeking out.
Once that’s locked, go green all-over by adding a forest green chino and jade overcoat – the key is keeping the colours a shade or two apart, so you don’t look like you’re in uniform. If that’s too much, start with clashing accessories like an emerald backpack or chartreuse pocket square.
Suitsupply Copenhagen Green Plain Blazer, available at Suitsupply, priced £229.

Distressed Jeans

Ideally, those raw jeans you bought at the height of the workwear boom have started to degrade naturally. If not, then you can still jump on the distressed denim trend off-the-rack. You’ve got some options here; for the uninitiated, look to lived-in jeans, which feature the kind of whiskering and fades around the crotch and knees you’d normally have to sacrifice some skin to earn.
For ripped-knee acolytes, follow the likes of Baartmans & Siegel and James Long, whose SS16 offerings featured jeans so shredded they looked they’d gone best of three with a woodchipper. Basically, if Kurt Cobain would have worn it, so should you.
Nudie Jeans Brute Knut Slim-Fit Organic Jeans, available at Mr Porter, priced £165.

The Souvenir Jacket

The bomber is, if not dead, then at least worth moving to the back of your rotation. This season’s hero piece is the souvenir jacket, or sukajan, a silky take on the style with intricate chinoiserie on the reverse. It originated with US soldiers, who’d commission jackets to mark tours of the Far East that mixed domestic tropes – think bald eagles and the Stars ‘n’ Stripes – with dragons, tigers and East Asian flowers.
This season’s best example of cross-cultural pollination is Mr Porter’s super-exclusive hook-up with Japanese brand Sasquatchfabrix, who crafted this Mt Fuji-featuring souvenir jacket for the e-tailer’s showcase of Japanese fashion.
Best paired with a white tee and some slashed, black jeans.
Sasquatchfabrix + Beams Embroidered Souvenir Jacket, available at Mr Porter, priced £440.

The Light Grey Roll Neck

Your black roll neck served you well through winter, but you should leave the Milk Tray look with the darker weather. A light grey version does the same job – lengthens your torso, lends your tailoring something new, looks as good with a suit as a souvenir jacket – but is a sign that you’ve stepped into spring.
Since the weather’s less predictable, look for thin-gauge versions in a natural fabric. Merino is super-soft against your skin, breathes and absorbs sweat when you’re warm, and traps heat to fight that unexpected cold snap. Consider it your ally against inaccurate weathermen.
John Smedley Belvoir Roll Neck Merino Wool Sweater, available at Mr Porter, priced £130.

Wide-Legged Trousers

Despite what some folks in our comment section claim, wide-legged trousers are not a designer-led conspiracy to make men look stupid. Sure, when worn wrong, they do everything they shouldn’t; if the proportions are off your body shrinks or grows in ways you definitely don’t want.
But balance their volume with a cropped, close-fitting jacket and the perfect pair of shoes – something chunky enough not to get lost, but not so platformed you look like Disco Stu – and they bestow a suave, slim silhouette on even the most gym-shy man.
This season, options abound. E Tautz showed a loose denim version, Casely-Hayford made pleats acceptable even for men who don’t remember the war, and Dolce & Gabbana did theirs up in bold florals. But whichever you opt for, pair with neutral separates so they stay the statement piece.
ADPT Pleated Chinos In Wide-Leg Fit, available at ASOS, priced £45.

The Rain-Ready Backpack

Part of prepping for spring is taking steps against showers. So unless you think that vegetable-tanned leather briefcase you got for graduation would look better water-stained, you need something designed to handle the elements.
Recent seasons have seen functional backpacks transition from the shelves at Blacks to the likes of Balenciaga, whose all-black take is smart enough for work and rubberised to keep your stuff dry. Accessories brand UTC00 is equally adept at blending form and function; the brand’s vibrant second season collection has enough nylon, zips and water-repellent canvas to cope with storms, in colours to catch any street style snapper’s eye.
UTC00 Rucksack, available at Zalando, priced £115.

The Oversized Scarf

Voluminous scarves in versatile colours were (literally) big at Missoni, Burberry Prorsum and Saint Laurent this season. Although normally considered an autumn staple, they’re also ideal for adjusting your temperature to suit weather that’s sweltering by day and frozen by night.
Team a trench coat or light jacket with a scarf rich in colour to make a statement, or something with a washed-out patterned, taking cues from Missoni, for a 1970s-inspired way to dress down. Just take care not to drift into Tom Baker territory.
Burberry Extra Long Icon Check Scarf, available at Harrods, priced £695.

 

10 Key Pieces For Your Transitional Wardrobe

Trench Coat

Showers aren’t the only issue when winter thaws to spring. In December, it’s fine to bundle up. But unexpected sunshine soon turns that overcoat into a portable steam room.
When the weather’s unpredictable, you need something waterproof but unlined, with space for the layers that give nuanced temperature control. Aquascutum’s trenches have been providing precisely that for more than a century, and its new Voyager coat continues its legacy in a range of colours that could brighten up even the most dour commute.
It even packs away into its own bag, in case your weather predictions are too pessimistic.
Voyager Trench, available at Aquascutum, priced £250.

Sneakerboots

We weren’t 100 per cent down with the sneakerboot when it first emerged. But a few run-outs in the wet proved that these hybrid shoes are ideal for in-between days, when a hiker seems OTT, but you don’t want to ruin your boxfresh kicks.
Converse’s wear their ruggedness lightly – ideal for dipping a toe in the trend (and keeping it dry).
Chuck Taylor All Star Tekoa Boot, available at Converse, priced £74.99.

Washed Denim

Bruised skies mean you need to stow your dry denim, lest unexpected showers undo a year’s worth of avoiding water (although your better half might not be so unhappy).
Luckily, this season beaten-up jeans are trending; Orslow’s pre-distressed denim means you needn’t sweat the odd dousing.
Orslow + Beams Distressed Denim Jeans, available at Mr Porter, priced £170.

Umbrella

When rain’s a risk, you need a brolly. But buying a throwaway from the nearest newsagent every time the heavens open is a false economy that also means you’re accessorising a considered outfit with garish plastic.
Invest in a London Undercover keeper instead, to protect yourself from elements and side-eyes.
Folded Olive Umbrella, available at London Undercover, priced £60.

Wool Suit

You may think it’s too warm for wool, but the wonder material is your ideal ally against changeable conditions. The fabric has air pockets, which trap heat when there’s frost out, but also let your body breath when a rush along the platform has left you sprinkling.
It’s less happy in the wet, though. So don’t leave your umbrella on the train.
Grey City Suit, available at Oliver Brown, priced £425.

Fisherman-Knit Roll Neck

The first day you can ditch the coat is like liberation from four months of chilblains. So usher that moment in earlier with a layer that’s as warm as heavy outerwear.
This season, fisherman have ousted lumberjacks as the working men that urbanites are ‘inspired by’. But there’s a practical side to this classism – if it can keep you warm on a boat, you’re probably alright in a beer garden. That’s your excuse.
Cream Turtleneck, available at SuitSupply, priced £129.

Bright, Cashmere Scarf

The simplest way to add some heat when it’s cold, cashmere is also fine enough to stow in a pocket when it’s not.
Embrace the longer days and use it to bring a pop of colour to all that drab winter gear you’re not quite ready to put into storage.
Reversible Paisley Scarf, available at Edward Sexton, priced £120.

Dainite-Soled Shoes

Did we mention the wet? Leather soles soften when they’re soaked, allowing them to be shredded by pavements.
To avoid monthly trips to the cobblers, invest in Dainite. These thin rubber soles look like leather from the side, but will protect your pocket – and your footing.
Sovereign Brogue, available at Loake, priced £165.

Denim Jacket

In spring, the denim jacket has a life beyond outerwear. The perfect transitional layering piece, it slots in under everything from a suit jacket to a bomber, bringing a touch of warmth and texture.
Just make sure it fits you like a glove. Boxy shapes don’t sit pretty under slimline tailoring.
Dark Indigo Western Denim Jacket With Red Lining, available at Topman, priced £45.

Low Maintenance Hair

Gales, squalls and sweat aren’t good news for your barnet. Fortunately, this season’s key hairstyles take all three into account.
If you have short to mid-length hair, try a fringe or choppy, textured cut that can easily be restyled with your fingers if the wind picks up. If longer tressed, apply sea salt spray to damp hair and allow to dry naturally for an effortless, 1990s grunge-inspired style.

5 Ways To Take Your Look Space Age

Fashion’s obsession with its own sphincter can be mind-numbing. This season’s rifle through dad’s going-out clothes saw brands disappear so far up their own flared, fur-trimmed behinds that London Collection Men’s organisers could have replaced most runway shows with American Hustle on loop, and the only reaction would have been to note how A-list the celebs had become.
Luckily, some brands dug deeper through the DVD box: where most came down with a dose of Saturday Night Fever, the likes of Nasir Mazhar and Y-3 boldly went where no shearling jacket ever could. From the ‘Space Oddity’ soundtrack at Versace to the glints of metal at Calvin Klein, sci-fi was more prominent on the runway than at any comic book convention. But before you reach for the tinfoil, know that integrating space-age style is about subtle touches. Lest you veer from futuristic into fancy dress.

Stick To One Statement Piece

At first glance, the metallic coats at Calvin Klein were more Quality Street than Bond Street. But the takeaway here is that the shock value of a statement piece is all down to how you style it.
If all-over gold lamé is too much (and it is) you can literally dip a toe in with the gold foil adidas Superstar Hype. Or take a tip from Klein and pair one space-age piece with neutrals, to ensure even a small touch pops; a lightweight metallic jacket under a black overcoat is more dolled-up Darth Vader than C3PO. Just avoid the urge to hang out with short dudes dressed in silver.

The Devil’s In The Detail

Instead of going full-on Space Odyssey, Nasir Mazhar created a subtle sci-fi vibe for AW16. The emphasis was on recurring details like ultraviolet racing stripes or mesh panels, used to create a futuristic spin on traditional silhouettes.
Follow Mazhar’s lead and stick to monochromes – architectural details and coruscating colours is more baroque than Buck Rogers. Practical materials like mesh and technical fabrics make for futuristic fashion with an eye on function; think about the breathable tech that you’d wear to the gym, but in less figure-hugging cuts.
With menswear classics, look for unexpected details – a plain black bomber with ruffles, or nylon panel, give history a space age twist.

Keep It Streamlined

When Virgin Galactic announced that Y-3 would be designing the uniform for commercial spaceflights, we expected an all-black take on the Nasa classic. But Yohji avoided Michelin Man spacesuits, opting instead for streamlined silhouettes and leather accents, for a look that translates from space to the streets.
The key is to avoid bulk with slim-fit pieces that you can layer up. Collarless is always an easy update, and zips and pockets aren’t just functional – they break the black with a subtler take on Calvin Klein’s metallic shimmer. Take liberties with length; a long layer shirt ruffling beneath a loose sweatshirt makes the most of that zero gravity.

If In Doubt, Stick To Accessories

It’s ironic that the one brand renowned for its ridiculous extravagance actually served up the season’s most wearable sci-fi.
Versace’s astro print sweatshirts and holographic backpacks were a subtle nod, but the real tip to take from Donatella is that accessories make a difference. A silver insignia brooch pinned to a lapel gives a classic look an update, but if you’re feeling daring keep an eye out for accessories with a holographic finish.

Sci-fi Fabrics Make All The Difference

Philipp Plein is all about extravagance, this season commissioning a bespoke skate park and rapper Lil Wayne for his runway show. The clothes were as out-there as Alpha Centauri, so stay closer to home with metallic prints on monochrome sweatshirts or tees.
The same goes for Plein’s neoprene jackets – the scuba fabric turns any piece into something suited to the Starship Enterprise. The key is to keep it simple; neoprene trousers are too frogman, but the spongy material works perfectly as an update to the basic sweat or slim-fit jacket.

5 Best Designer Derby Shoes For Men

VALENTINO Point Break leather derby shoes

Valentino’s black Point Break derby shoes combine effortless cool with put-together smartness. They’re crafted in Italy from smooth leather, shaped to a sleek almond toe, and have a black rubber welt and white stud-textured sole that adds a sports-luxe slant. They fit true to size.

Available at Matches Fashion , priced $624.00

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COMMON PROJECTS Cadet leather derby shoes

In recent seasons, Common Projects has turned its attention to formal footwear. These black Cadet derby shoes are crafted from smooth leather, detailed with a beige grosgrain pull tab at the heel, and finished with the label's signature serial number. We recommend taking a size smaller as they fit large to size.

Available at Matches Fashion, priced $407.00

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BURBERRY Leather grip sole derby shoes

Burberry’s black derby shoes are the ultimate smart/casual style. They’re expertly crafted in Italy from glossy black calf leather, and set on gripped rubber soles to ensure a firm footing. Fits true to size.

Available at Matches Fashion, priced $593.00

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A.P.C. Samuel leather derby shoes

Polished outfits demand exacting footwear, like A.P.C.'s black Samuel lace-up derby shoes. They're crafted by Italian cordwainers from grained leather, and have a rounded shape with exposed stitching and a stacked wooden heel. Fits true to size.

Available at Matches Fashion, priced $383.00

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DOLCE & GABBANA Sorrento washed-suede derby shoes

Dolce & Gabbana’s Sorrento derby shoes are minimally detailed to keep the focus on the sleek silhouette and plush suede construction. The supple leather linings and gripped rubber sole ensure lasting comfort. This Italian-made pair fit true to size.

Available at Matches Fashion, priced $462.00

Buy Better Jeans With The 6 Cs Of Denim

After tailoring, denim is your trickiest buy. The exponential options in cut, colour and condition are testament to the fact that your 501s have more than a century under their oversized belt. Unfortunately, the well-woven diamonds are buried among bootcut rough.
In the jewel trade, experts deploy the six Cs – carat, cut, colour, clarity, confidence and certificate – to ensure that what glitters can be sold. So we’ve pinched a leaf from their book, to craft a sextet of checks your new denim needs to pass. Now there’ll be no more sniggers from Canadian tuxedo-clad shop assistants when you confuse selvedge and selvage.

1. Crest (AKA Choosing The Right Brand)

First step – set yourself a budget. That number dictates whether you’re looking at an artisan Japanese label (the Far East bulges with innovative denim manufacturers) or an American brand your mum recognises. Not that the latter means worse results; Levi’s, Wrangler and Lee earned reps clothing cowboys and that nous endures.
Every brand makes jeans, but specialists do it best. Saint Laurent denim may be on-trend this season, but you’ll still be wearing a pair of Denham jeans in a decade. For more outré styles, try Japan’s Evisu or Canadian oddballs Naked and Famous, who once built a pair of 32oz jeans that could stand up without legs in.
If your tastes are more classic then Edwin, Nudie and A.P.C. specialise in stripped-back styles, more a base layer for an outfit, not its statement piece. Sample widely to find your favourite. As with your tailor, once you’ve found a brand that fits perfectly, it’s a relationship for life.

2. Construction (AKA Know Your Materials)

With denim, cost correlates to longevity. Cheap out and they’ll split quick, so spend as much as you can afford. For cost-per-wear, even spendy denim’s kept its blue-collar roots. America is its spiritual home, but for denimheads, the best fabric is Japanese. That’s because when US manufacturers junked their traditional looms in pursuit of efficiency, Japan stayed loyal to 1920s machines, which give less uniform results. And for jeans junkies, individuality is the game.
There are two main types of jeans: standard and selvedge (or selvage, in the States). The former is woven in industrial quantities on equally enormous machinery, and is perfectly serviceable. The latter is crafted on traditional shuttle looms and is marked out by stitching (often red) on the inside of a turn-up. As ever, that craftsmanship counts, since selvedge is mostly made in smaller batches, from better materials, and used by better manufacturers. That scarlet thread is a signature of quality.

3. Cut (AKA How You Like Your Silhouette)

Jeans originated as workwear, so were cut baggy enough to be comfortable without getting in the way. Their transition, courtesy of James Dean, into fashion, subjected denim to some ignominious silhouettes (flares are currently attempting an ill-advised comeback, while bootcuts are a 1990s staple you should leave there).
Slim-fits have dominated recently, but things are finally starting to loosen up. You may not be enamoured of the wide-leg styles ported from the streets of Tokyo (although we’d argue that you will be soon) but spray-on fits should also be swerved. The most versatile is a slim silhouette, which tapers below the knee to avoid excess fabric flapping round your calf. Invest there first, then experiment.

DENHAM RAZOR SLIM-FIT

4. Colour (AKA Don’t Taste The Rainbow)

The coruscating shades of modern denim would make Levi Strauss weep. But then, so would seeing men pay four figures for an item he designed to go down mines. Dry his eyes and stick to denim’s core four washes: black, indigo, faded and, in the summer, white. Leave coruscating colours to the boybands.
Within that quartet, the darker your jeans, the smarter they are. And the easier they are to wear. Black goes with anything from a button-down to a crew neck. White treads a fine line between Pitti Peacock and the forgotten half of Wham!.

5. Complexion (AKA Look Closely At The Details)

Denim’s devil is in the details. Your dry selvedge can look fine from afar, until people notice your chafe-induced John Wayne waddle. Denim below 14oz will avoid that. Keep an eye out for contrast stitching and embellishments on the back pocket – fine out of the office, less so with a blazer and tie.
Distressing, especially, needs attention. The aim is to skip the two years transitioning from raw denim to personalised wear. Not look like you recreated Fargo’s woodchipper scene.
Keep nicks to a six-inch window above your knee, to avoid accidentally emulating Rick Owens’ manhood-flashing AW15 show. If in doubt, buy an unsullied pair and slice your own with a razor. Carefully.

NUDIE JEANS

6. Cleaning (AKA Yes, You Will Have To Wash Them Eventually)

Most of the myths around cleaning denim are precisely that. But it’s true that the longer they avoid the machine, the better.
Raw denim – dark indigo jeans that haven’t been washed – lose dye where they crease. These ‘fades’ are the denimhead’s Holy Grail, personalised wear marks that give a history of how you’ve worn them. The spin cycle extracts this dye all-over, so your jeans fade everywhere at once.

NUDIE JEANS NEW TO WORN RAW DENIM JEANS

Six months is the minimum you want to keep raw jeans out of the laundry basket (if they’re black or came pre-distressed, that’s less important). But because biology has no time for fashion, scents can tempt an early wash. Resist.
However, don’t believe the anonymous denim aficionado who keeps his in the freezer; sponge yours, or deploy Mr Black’s Denim Refresh for spot cleaning that kills odours, not your fades.

How To Buy A Bag That Works Everywhere

Bags are big news (and not just the oversized holdalls that were all over AW15’s runways). But with prices equally inflated, developing a deep bag rotation is bad news for your bank balance. Instead, you need utility; invest in a bag that works everywhere, with any outfit, and that three-figure outlay seems less imposing.

Size Matters

The first thing to think about is size – how big does your bag need to be? Breakdown what you carry and how often you carry it. Do you lug a laptop around everyday? Think about a backpack with integrated laptop sleeve. Off to the gym? Make sure your bag can cope with your trainers and kit. But if you think objectively about other occasions where bags are essential, such as travelling, you’ll soon realise that size really does matter.
Current trends for portfolios, flight bags and, dare we say, bum bags, aren’t a sound investment simply because they are severely limited in functionality. No-one has ever spontaneously decided to jet off for the weekend and successfully packed anything useful into their portfolio.
Expandable bags by brands like Maharam and oversized totes from Miami accessories brand Miansai will provide years of use due to sheer versatility. Small enough for daily use with scope for a weekends worth of essentials is how to nail this one.
Key Brands: Miansai, Mi-Pac, Eastpak, Herschel, UTC 00.

Be Materialistic

To most people luxury means a fabric like leather. And while it’s hard to deny that a leather bag has certain qualities, it also has some drawbacks. Leather bags will be heavy – you’ll need to factor in this extra weight in addition to everything else you’ll be carrying.
Luxury fashion houses like Prada make a huge range of bags in nylon and other synthetic materials, which might seem like the opposite of luxury but are in fact high performance technical fabrics.
What you need is something hard-wearing, but that is also appropriate for the day-to-day situations you find yourself in. You can’t take a canvas tote into the boardroom, just like you can’t take a leather briefcase to the beach. Find harmony between composition and propriety.
Pragmatism is the key here – a ripstop nylon bag will survive an apocalypse, be light enough to carry to the end of the earth and if chosen correctly, suitable for virtually every occasion.
Key Brands: Coach, Prada, Maharam, Aspinal, Mismo, Porter & Yoshida Co.

Form And Function

Before they were fashion accessories bags were a necessity – so keep practicality at the forefront of your mind when shopping. Like most accents, a bag can make or break an outfit. Choose a new bag like you would a new watch. If it’s expensive it can be a status symbol, but it must still do the job and work with your wardrobe.
Brands like Vocier, who have created a carry-on design that not only meets airline size regulations but allows the user to transport a suit without it getting wrinkled in transit, prove that if you look hard enough for a bag that does what you need it to, you’ll find it.
When it comes to design, your own personal style will dictate the kind of bag that is suitable for you. As a general rule, minimal branding and detailing will almost guarantee longevity (especially when combined with a durable material – see above). Neutral shades are always a foolproof choice, but never more so when it comes to a decent bag.
Key Brands: Vocier, Filson, Christopher Raeburn, Cote Et Ciel, Want Les Essentials De La Vie, Mulberry.