8 Menswear Labels You Don’t Know – But Should

Gosha Rubchinskiy

Russian-football-hooligan-chic is a style not solely reserved for chair throwing locals at the next World Cup. Gosha Rubchinskiy’s eponymous brand merges the inner yob with smartly crafted sportswear and 1990s Soviet nostalgia, all done up in the Russian flag’s tricolour tones.
Part-skate brand, part-Stallone’s adversary from Rocky IV, Gosha Rubchinskiy provides a rare blend of originality and that all-important wearability factor. Which is perhaps why his pieces now beat out Supreme and Palace for the discerning streetwear savant.
Signature Piece: Rubchinskiy’s Cyrillic logo tees let the squad know you’ve copped a rare piece. Hence why they sell out in seconds. Look to eBay for your hook-up.

Todd Lynn

Building on a background as rooted in music as it is in fashion, Todd Lynn launched in 2006 and was immediately snapped up by fashion week’s front row fixtures.
Since then, the brand has expanded from celebrity clients to clothing mere mortals as well; name drop disclaimer, Lynn has spun threads for the likes of legendary Mick Jagger and macabre-metalhead Marilyn Manson.
Granted, the darkchild deconstructed aesthetic may not be for everyone, but judicious application can turn your tailoring up to 11. Even if you don’t have moves like Jagger.
Signature Piece: Lynn’s Side Stripe Trousers are tailoring with a peekaboo touch. Better on stage than worn to the office.

Stampd

For half a decade, Chris Stamp has steered his label towards what he calls ‘avantstreet’ clothing. Which translates as streetwear with a luxe edge; think the kind of kit Rick Owens might pull on after surfing in Big Sur.
Blending the best of west and east coast Americana, with a touch of Tokyo in the boxy silhouettes, Stampd’s collections are simple and classic, but designed with original details that stand apart from often homogeneous streetwear, be it a printed cuff on a Cuban-collared shirt or an inverted stitchback sweater.
Signature Piece: Stamp produced a version of his signature strapped bomber for the brand’s hook-up with Gap last year. If you missed out, the mainline version will still give your streetwear an S&M edge.

James Long

A modern man should be in no way averse to prints, especially when designers like James Long deploy them so creatively.
His collections are a kaleidoscope of colour that, styled top-to-toe, leaves you looking like a book of kindergarten wallpaper samples. But deployed sparingly (in otherwise neutral outfits) his pieces punch personality into everything you’re wearing.
Signature Piece: Long doesn’t do pretty. His graphics, like those on the SS16 Woven Front Sweatshirt, are riots of colour, but demolished to the point that they look like they’ve endured an actual riot.

SEH Kelly

The term ‘up-and-comer’, when applied to a designer or brand, often means garments that blow up on the runway and bomb in the street. Not so SEH Kelly, a British label that responds only tangentially to the fashion cycle.
This homegrown label was established in 2009 to clad our kind in well-made clothing that not only looks good, but can withstand the rigours of thirsty Thursdays and dirty public transport. With a history on Savile Row, SEH Kelly is distinctly traditional and guaranteed to transcend seasonal gimmicks. In fact, the brand is so confident in its handmade wares that it never discounts – one of the perks of crafting clothes that never date.
Signature Piece: SEH Kelly’s SB1 Jacket is so soft it verges on knitwear. Which means it works in the office, but will also make you the best-dressed dude in the pub. Not the most overdressed.

David Hart

Presenting a modern day ode of sorts to The Talented Mr Ripley, David Hart is responsible for creating unique menswear that is part-resortwear, part-Studio 54.
Geometric colourways and bold prints are emblazoned on traditional silhouettes, proving that you don’t need a backless Oxford-tuxedo hybrid to stand apart. An impressive resume features stints at Anna Sui, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren, but Hart’s label more than stands on his own two feet.
Signature Piece: Another of Gap’s hook-ups, Hart’s Wool Zip Cardigan is part-varsity jacket, part-bomber, and all steezy.

Public School

Don’t be fooled by the name – Public School is less Etonian croquet match, more cool kid at your comprehensive selling ciggies at the gate.
Though the brand’s been heating up for a few years, it hit boiling point when it won last year’s International Woolmark Prize, an award that recognised designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne’s ability to craft Blade Runner futurism from the most traditional materials.
Monochrome accents, crystal-cut silhouettes and unusual (but subtle) features make Public School the ultimate best in class.
Signature Piece: Public Schools cuts are designed for top-of-the-class layering. Particularly its Line Print Wool Shirt, which ensures your longline look is always on-point.

5 Ways for Men to Wear Camel You Should

When it comes to menswear, it’s a hoary old cliché to preach about ‘timeless classics’. But camel, that very light brown shade that takes its name from the even-toed ungulate of the same name, goes all the way back to the bible – by which we mean the actual bible, not style ones. Specifically Matthew 3:4, which refers to John the Baptist straight up stunting in a “raiment of camel’s hair, and a leather girdle about his loins”. Fierce. And this roughly 2,000 years BY (Before Yeezus).

Even now, some men still take a bit of converting to camel. Certainly, it’s not as safe as some less showy shades. If you’re among the sartorially meek, then rejoice: the colour is practically omnipresent for the season of our Lord autumn/winter 2015, and we’ve set in stone the commandments you need to follow.

This is the camel gospel according to FashionBeans.

On The Runway

There was a veritable herd of designers that came over camel this season, coats in particular. Which is as it should be, says Thom Scherdel, buyer at men’s e-tailer The Idle Man. “The camel coat is a staple and also one of the first styles we put into work for our in-house collection,” he says. “We’re finding that coloured coats are outselling black and navy nearly five to one. We sold out of our camel coat in just two weeks and they’ve only just now come back in stock.”

At Louis Vuitton in Paris, Kim Jones showed a variety of coat styles, mixing them up further by adding prints. Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent included a more conventional but still covetable version in his collection of Parisian scenester wardrobe staples. While Miuccia Prada expanded her remit from coats to shirts.

Elsewhere, Alessandro Michele’s androgynous first collection for Gucci featured some very wearable camel knitwear alongside the only slightly less wearable pussy-bow blouses. And we have to shout out Lacoste’s unexpectedly brilliant Royal Tenenbaumstribute, which included camel trench and teddy bear coats and a suit accessorised with sweatbands. How’s that for ‘sports luxe’?

 

Campaign For Camel

If you’re one of those people who complains about there being too many ads in fashion magazines, then you’re missing the point – and roughly half the fun.

‘Campaigns’ – as they’re rather grandly referred to in the industry – are where brands literally and metaphorically set out their stall for the season. That’s part of the reason The September Issue was the subject and name of a documentary about American Vogue – it’s when the labels traditionally unveil their new ‘creative’ (another fancy word for ad) for the autumn/winter season.

Brands put a lot of stock and cash into these campaigns, assembling top photographers and stylists at great expense to showcase what they consider to be their A-game garms: what’s going to sell, garner attention, or both. As well as being nice to look at, fashion ads are therefore a pretty reliable way to gauge what’s cool for ‘fall/winter’, as our US brethren insist on calling it.

This season, camel is so hot it’s fire. Menswear’s Mad Men have gone crazy for it. Hugo Boss has ensconced top male model Clement Chabernaud in a camel coat and Bottega Veneta is pushing a sharp peak lapel. Meanwhile, at the other end of the pricing spectrum, H&M has a surprisingly luxe-looking dropped shoulder number. And it’s not just coats either: Bally ballyhooed a full camel suit and matching beanie. As did Reiss.

 

The Camel Coat

In the beginning was the camel coat. It’s not quite the alpha and omega of go-to essentials, but it’s up there. At the same time, it’s a look-at-me statement piece that can turn any outfit into an ‘alphet’ in a way that common navy or grey outerwear simply can’t. Hence why designers keep coming back to it – as will you.

“A camel coat is definitely a versatile piece, both in terms of colour adjacency and styling options,” says Scherdel. In other words, you can wear it with a lot of things, in a lot of ways.

As you’d expect from a tailored overcoat, you can layer it over a suit. Camel is on the lighter side, so we’d suggest anchoring it with darker colours like navy or charcoal. But, in all honesty, it’ll go well with any of the 50 shades of grey around this season. You knowtone-on-tone grey is a thing, right?

Or, you can go a little more rock ‘n’ roll. “My advice would be to wear it with an all-black ensemble paired with some brown Chelsea boots,” says Scherdel. (Very Saint Laurent of you, Thom.) “Another option would be a grey marl sweatshirt and denim.”

Camel looks really good with denim. Think about it: most blue jeans have contrast stitching that is close to camel, if not bang on. That’s why you often see camel coats styled with denim jackets underneath (both pieces share a certain roughness of texture too).

Some points on fit: there should be enough room to squeeze a tailored (or denim) jacket under your camel coat, but not much more than that, unless you go for a slouchier raglan sleeve, which is less sharp but undoubtedly more on-trend.

However, although oversized outerwear is all the rage on the runways and among the cognoscenti, in real life coats generally shouldn’t stray below the knee. You want to look modern, not like you should be accessorising with a zimmer frame.

 

The (Camel) Cult Of Kanye

“When I think camel coat, Kanye is the first person that pops into my head,” says Scherdel.“When he popularised the famous Maison Martin Margiela x H&M one with grey lapels.”

More recently, and on a more casual tip, Kanye wore head-to-toe camel at the MTV VMAs – almost certainly from his Yeezy season 1 collection with adidas, which will have broken the internet by the time you don’t read this.

“Love him or loathe him, Kanye makes ripples in the industry and is certainly a barometer of trends,” says Scherdel. “Personally, I think he’s on-point. Not many rappers would know who Raf Simons was if it wasn’t for ‘Ye.” Amen to that.

 

Alternative Camel Pieces

If you want to tick off two trends for the price of one, Michael Kors, Gant and even Mango Man have all done shearling in camel this season, which sounds like an unholy cross-breed but is in fact totally praiseworthy.

Ben Sherman also has a duffle that’s a mite more affordable than Vuitton’s. And if Gucci knits are a tad too spendy, A.P.C. and Uniqlo both have camel crew neck jumpers (although the latter calls it ‘natural’).

Or you could go for a camel roll neck, like Oscar Isaac in A Most Violent Year. Killer.

Top 10 Men's Fragrances Under £20

When we think of fragrance, we tend to think of luxury. Expensively packaged, celebrity-endorsed and backed by lavish marketing campaigns, many fragrances are offered up as an entry point to the finer life. But not everyone can afford to splash out on a £50 bottle of eau de toilette or a £150 boutique scent.

There are times, too, when you’d rather save your favourite fragrance for special occasions, preferring to turn to a comparatively less expensive ‘workhorse’ scent for everyday use.

But can you get a decent fragrance for minimal spend? We took a cold, hard look at the fragrance market’s entry-level options to find the 10 scents under £20 worth buying.

Oud By Library Of Fragrance

At £15 a pop, Library of Fragrance colognes are not only great value, but their breadth of choice is pretty much unbeatable, too. Skip the bonkers ones like Lemon Meringue Pie, and opt for Oud, Sandalwood, Ocean or Amber, which are all classic scents worthy of your bathroom cabinet.

They also do one called Pumpkin Pie – a smell which, according to research by The Smell and Taste Treatment and Research Foundation in Chicago, has the ability to increase penile blood-flow. Just putting it out there…

£15 for 30ml cologne, from Boots.

 

Paul Smith Extreme

One of the better Paul Smith fragrances, the 30ml bottle of Extreme may be small, but the fragrance itself is big, bold, woody and spicy, packed with nutmeg, cardamom, rosewood, sandalwood and a sensual dose of musk.

Its creator, acclaimed nose Olivier Pescheux, also worked on the hugely successful Mont Blanc Legend fragrance, so you know you’re on to a good thing with this one.

£15.88 for 30ml, from Feelunique.

 

Ben Cohen Eau De Toilette

Consider yourself a fan of Abercrombie & Fitch’s hugely successful Fierce fragrance? Then you’ll probably like this signature scent from former England rugby union winger turned anti-bullying campaigner Ben Cohen, which is very similar in smell, strength and design. But not in price.

£10 for 100ml eau de toilette, from Superdrug.

 

Bench Urban Original 2 For Him

Fresh and fruity – thanks to notes of lemon, grapefruit and apple – but with a rich, musky and vanillary dry down, this fragrance debuted in 2013 and is a solid option for fans of Boss Bottled, a similarly fruity (but significantly more expensive) scent characterised by its top note of apple.

£20 for 100ml eau de toilette, from bench.co.uk

 

Tabac Original

“Tabac is the string vest of aftershaves,” says Lizzie Ostrom, author of Perfume: A Century of Scents, of this corner shop-chemist classic.

“It is deeply uncool yet clinging on for dear life in certain quarters.” Tabac’s punchy blend of lavender, sandalwood, carnation and tobacco will come as a shock if you’re only used to contemporary fragrances, but it’s a shock worth subjecting yourself to.

“It’s a busy old scent but multifaceted,” says Ostrom.

£9.99 for 100ml eau de cologne splash, from Fragrance Direct.

 

Activist By The Body Shop

One of four affordable fragrances The Body Shop has created specifically for men, Activist is a warm, spicy and woody number with a slightly medicinal, tobacco-y edge that is energising, uplifting and boasts impressive staying power once sprayed on the skin.

Great for daytime use and generously sized for the price to boot.

£15 for 100ml eau de toilette, from The Body Shop.

 

4711 Cologne

Launched in 1792, this timeless fragrance may be cheap as chips, but it’s anything but cheap-smelling. Formulated with a now classic combination of bright, crisp citrus notes and aromatic herbs like lavender and rosemary, it’s perfect for the office or summer holidays and not unlike (a dramatically cheaper version of) Acqua Di Parma Colonia or Dior Eau Sauvage in character.

As it’s an ephemeral, lightweight cologne, you’ll need to reapply often but at least at this price you can easily afford to.

£11.66 for 100ml eau de cologne, from Boots.

 

Topman Vetiver

Thoughtfully branded, Topman’s fragrances are always worth investigating. In the past the high street behemoth has worked with the likes of acclaimed fragrance designer Azzi Glasser to come up with relaxed, especially wearable fragrances.

This one is fresh and perky. Remember that if you do like this, or any other of Topman’s fragrances, it’s worth grabbing a couple of bottles because, much like the retailer’s clothing, styles don’t stick around for long before being replaced.

£10 for 100ml eau de toilette, from Topman.

 

Beyond By David Beckham

As celebrity fragrances go, Becks’ offerings aren’t bad at all. Indeed they can’t be, if they’ve managed to survive ten years after his first fragrance launched.

Beyond, Golden Balls’ second offering, is a versatile number that’s perfect for evening and especially good for younger guys (it’s not too challenging to wear), featuring grapefruit, spicy black pepper, a crisp ‘mojito accord’ and a touch of creamy vanilla.

£14.86 for 40ml eau de toilette gift set, from Amazon.

 

Old Spice Original Aftershave

“It’s lasted for generations; perhaps because the price point makes it affordable, but maybe just because it’s good,” says Liam Moore, founder of fragrance magazine ODOU, of this underrated classic.

With its heart note of carnation (one Moore reckons has helped this scent earn its reputation for being the epitome of masculinity), it’s a scent that really needn’t be reserved exclusively for dads and granddads – so be bold and give it a go!

£7.50 for 150ml aftershave lotion, from Amazon.

 

5 Ways To Buy A Three-Season Suit

With frost coming, your tailoring needs a cold-weather tweak. But cosy suiting isn’t wise if your office comes with central heating. In our mod con world, buying a suit specifically for three months of the year is an expense that can leave you sweating. Instead, you need fabrics suitable from autumn to spring, so you don’t have to shell out every time the seasons switch.

Worsted Wool

Wool is nature’s weather-beater. The fibres trap heat, but also encourage airflow, so you stay cool even when transitioning from commute to overheated office.
But weight is crucial, says Julian Fuller, head of menswear design at Debenhams. “The ideal is 280g to 300g Super-100s wool.” You won’t bake, but it’s still heavy enough that you’ll only need an overcoat when the weather turns.
The S number refers to the fabric’s fineness – the higher the number, the more delicate (and less hard-wearing) the material. Super-100s means you won’t wear the trousers out by new year. For extra versatility, a three-piece offers additional protection against snow, but you can ditch the waistcoat if the sun comes back out.
Elverton 4ply Worsted Wool Suit, available at Chester Barrie, priced from £995.

 

Merino

Shorn from the eponymous sheep, merino is not only finer than ordinary wool – which makes it super-soft – but also practical. “Merino wool helps to regulate temperature,” says Stuart McCullough, managing director of Woolmark, since it ensures heat escapes when it’s hot, but not when the mercury drops. It’s also springy enough to withstand an afternoon on the back of your chair – should you misjudge the temperature – without creasing.
To ensure the style is as adaptable as the construction, steer classic. A dark grey version will work from bare trees until daffodils pop up, so long as you adjust your accessories; think texture in winter and colour for spring.
This charcoal two-piece by T.M.Lewin features a modern silhouette and 100 per cent merino construction, making it appropriate from equinox to equinox.
Banbury Charcoal Tonic Two-Button Slim-Fit Suit, available at T.M.Lewin, priced £199.

 

Flannel

Flannel is wool brushed with metal combs, which lifts the fabric to give its distinctive texture. This makes it ideal for winter suits, since the raised nap traps heat and lends your tailoring a touch of texture. Traditionally you’d opt for monochrome, but playing with pattern modernises your look.
“Checks and tweeds are returning to the fore this winter,” says McCullough. “It’s great to see them modernised through lighter cloths and contemporary structures.”
For three-season versatility, stick to light shades and midweight fabrics. Soft greys will keep you looking fresh and airy year-round.
Crosby Suit In Windowpane Italian flannel, available at J.Crew, priced £650.

 

Wool-Cashmere Blend

Cashmere is ideal for the colder months, since it’s warm without adding weight. But because the fabric is hand-picked from the eponymous goat’s winter coat, rustling up enough for a suit is costly. Your compromise? Mix in wool for something more versatile.
To pick quality from filler, look for natural fibres and a semi-plain design, says Chris Modoo, creative and buying manager at Savile Row’s Chester Barrie. Because cashmere traps heat, stick to a medium weight to stay warm when it’s frosty without cooking on your commute.
Single-Breasted Pick-And-Pick Suit, available at Oliver Brown, priced £395.

 

Wool-Mohair Blend

“Natural fibres breath in the summer and keep you warm in the winter, so wool is the obvious choice,” says Fuller. “But adding mohair gives a natural crease-free finish.” It also gives your suiting a subtle sheen, so your look pops even when it’s dark out. A touch of colour helps here, too.
“Midnight blue is timeless, and much more sophisticated than black,” says Fuller. Just keep your accessories in the same family and create contrast through texture – a cashmere or flannel navy tie will give your look visual depth, and ensure you don’t veer into footballer-style shine.
Strong Blue Wool & Mohair Hyde Suit, available at Richard James, priced £845.

How To Buy Better Quality Men's Clothing

There’s a somewhat confusing – some might say cloak and dagger – relationship between price and quality when it comes to clothing.

Bulging marketing budgets, elaborate shop fittings and slick ad campaigns can whack a hefty premium on top of what you buy, with many big-name brands marking up their products by up to 500 per cent. Add to that a staggering array of fabrics, finishes and details and it’s little wonder we can’t tell if what we’re buying is actually worth the money.

The golden rule to not getting caught out? Never use price as a guide. Chances are you’ve worked hard for the cash so what’s the point in coughing up for subpar wares? This is our bible for finding top-notch clothing and accessories that are built to last.

Materials: Know Your Stuff

While a punchy colour or tongue-in-cheek print might draw you in, fabric is the first thing to check once you get up close and personal with a potential purchase. What a garment’s made from is one of the major factors in determining the number that ends up on its price tag, so if you’re about to shell out over £100 for an acrylic cardigan or pleather bag, it’s time to wake up and smell the coffee.

When it comes to knitwear, quality sheep’s wool, cashmere, linen and silk are all worth splashing out on, while acrylic, nylon and viscose should be avoided if you’re spending top whack.

A quality cashmere jumper will always be a wise investmentWHISTLES AW14

Cotton sits somewhere in the middle; it’s best to feel the fabric in person, as value for money can vary hugely between brands. For unbeatable softness, look for fine gauge knitwear and keep an eye out for Egyptian cotton, Pima cotton (which has longer fibres and won’t bobble or break apart as easily) and Sea Island cotton (one of the softest and sturdiest cottons available). James Perse, Sunspel and John Smedley are just some of the key brands which specialise in knitwear and tees crafted from these high-end fabrics.

Egyptian, Pima and Sea Island cotton pieces are supremely soft and durableSUNSPEL SEA ISLAND COTTON T-SHIRT

Also keep an eye out for: mercerised cotton, which has a finer feel and is more lustrous and resistant to shrinkage due to chemical washes, and merino wool, which is fantastically soft as well as temperature-regulating and moisture-wicking.

Synthetic fabrics – being specifically developed to withstand wear and tear – shouldn’t be automatically shunned. Ideal for coats and jackets made for braving the elements, outerwear crafted from synthetic materials is often lightweight, wind and water-resistant, breathable, and even reflective. Which would you rather brave a British storm in: a cashmere overcoat or a hooded nylon jacket? We rest our case.

Look to the likes of Moncler, Stone Island and Arc’teryx for man-made materials that are worth the expense.

Man-made fabrics are ideal for tackling the elements, making them great for outerwearSTONE ISLAND AW15

 

Don’t Shop Blind

Ultimately, when it comes to materials, bricks and mortar shopping will always have the edge over buying online. Go into stores, touch fabrics, see how they hang on you, and hold them up against each other to compare and contrast.

Yes, purchasing online is convenient but filling out a returns form and waiting in a post office queue isn’t everyone’s idea of a fun lunch break. Unless you already have a good idea of how an item fits and its fabrication, swap cyberspace for old-school shopping.

Touching and inspecting garments in store makes it easier to gauge quality

 

Scrunch Time

Try deploying the ‘scrunch’ test: use your hand to scrunch up an area of the garment and then release. If the wrinkles that initially form don’t disappear and the fabric doesn’t return to its initially smooth appearance, there’s every chance that the quality might not be up to scratch – though bear in mind certain materials (linen, rayon) will crease more easily than others.

And if you’re buying leather, try giving it a shallow scratch with your fingernail; if the scratch holds (it can still be rubbed away with a slightly moistened finger afterwards), then you know it’s going to be soft and pliable.

The ‘scrunch’ test is a good indicator of fabric quality

 

The Importance Of Provenance

Few of us really know how or where our clothes are actually made, and the country of origin tag can be a clue as to whether the item was mass-produced in a factory, or hand-shirred by artisans. ‘Clue’ is the operative word here – just because something was made in the Far East doesn’t mean it’s bound to fall to pieces. Consider country of origin a rule of thumb, rather than one that’s hard and fast.

For tailoring, shirting, shoes and leather accessories, Italy is in many respects the padre of manufacturers. The brands that produce their clothes there, from Prada to Bottega Veneta, make use of premium raw materials that come out of the country’s mills, supported by years of production expertise.

VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO ITALIAN FABRIC MILL

But just because something’s dall’Italia, doesn’t mean it’s always artisan-crafted in an atelier. The region is also home to well-known yet secretive suppliers such as Staff International and Pier SPA, who make clothing for multiple top-tier brands (Staff famously manufactures for luxury labels Margiela, Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs) which, while good quality, might be more mass-produced than the price tags would lead you to believe.

In contrast, the UK has lost much of its manufacturing clout over the years, with only a small number of larger factories still in operation. This means if you see a ‘Made in UK’ label, you can rest assured it probably hasn’t been produced in vast quantities – not that this alone is a guarantee of quality manufacturing.

Many labels such as Private White V.C., Alan Paine, Hiut Denim, John Smedley and evenDr. Martens and New Balance still produce top-notch wares in these isles.

PRIVATE WHITE V.C. AW15

Likewise, a ‘Made in the USA’ label often means quality, from the excellent woollen wares of Pendleton to Schott’s buttery soft leather biker jackets. Thanks to the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC) strict policies on the usage of the ‘Made in the USA’ label, brands really need to prove their provenance to (legally) use the tag on their wares.

Other renowned US-made brands include Filson, The Hill-Side, Quoddy, Red Wing,Wolverine and Rag & Bone.

SCHOTT NYC AW15

Elsewhere, Japan and France boast legions of craftspeople, while Spain and Portugal are proving to be globally successful purveyors of quality shoes and accessories.

As you might expect, China and India – especially when coupled with a suspiciously inexpensive price tag – is often still a marker of subpar craftsmanship, not to mention unethical working conditions for factory workers.

That said, there are plenty of exceptions, with brands like Feit and even US luxury playerCoach using exceptional Chinese craftsmanship to produce at a fraction of the price it costs to manufacture in the west.

FEIT 2015

 

Is It Well Built?

To the untrained eye, there might not be much separating a plain black £10 cardigan from a plain black £100 one. But the seams should give something away. Try lightly tugging or pulling at them to see if there’s any give; if there is, it’s a bad sign that the garment might’ve been hastily or cheaply constructed.

Generally, you want to hunt out items with tighter, closer, evenly spaced stitches, as this usually means they’re better made and will last longer. Similarly, if there’s any fraying threads on an item before you buy it, step away swiftly.

On items with ribbing, like sweatshirts, bomber jackets and the collars and cuffs of knitwear, give them a gentle tug; if they stretch or sag and don’t spring back, you might want to think twice.

And if the piece in question is patterned, the pattern should match up at the seams; not only does this look a lot better, but it shows that adequate care has been taken in producing the garment.

Always pay attention to the stitching

 

Don’t Be Tempted

It’s easy to get dazzled by an in-store celebrity endorsement, one-day flash sale or a limited time offer, but buying on impulse isn’t great logic for making sound investments.

If there’s something you’re dying to get your hands on, try stalling for 30 days and then re-evaluate. If you’ve forgotten about it, then you probably don’t need it. If you’ve decided you definitely can’t live without it, then make sure it’s worth the money.

Ask questions (where was it made? Can you find a similar, better-quality item elsewhere?) and do your homework by scoping out the style online if possible. Googling the item, or similar pieces from the same brand, can help you find forums (like our own) or site reviews chock full of insight worth taking into account.

Top 10 Distressed Jeans For Men

Beaten-up and broken-in, that’s the theme of this season’s denim, which comes packing rock ‘n’ roll vibes.
From shredded legs to neat knee slices, distressed denim is available in a whole host of forms, running the gamut from authentic workerwear styles to designs you’d expect to see on Sid Vicious.
In the market for a rough and ready pair of jeans for the months ahead? Check out ten of our favourites:

1. Nudie Jeans Steady Eddie Fredrik Replica Jeans

Want an authentic pair of worn-in jeans without having to go through the process yourself? Step forward Nudie Jeans.
The Swedish label’s Steady Eddie Replica model is based on a style worn by a chap named Fredrik for 18 months, meaning the abrasions and ripped detailing feels completely natural.
Coming in a versatile grey tone selvedge, they’re sure to match with everything else in your off-duty wardrobe. Try teaming with a plaid flannel shirt, padded parka and pair of Red Wings for a look that’s ready to deal with whatever Mother Nature throws at you.
Available at Nudie Jeans, priced £230.

 

2. Edwin Jeans ED-55 Relaxed Tapered-Fit Bronco

For a more subtle scattering of rips, opt for this deep blue pair from Japanese specialist Edwin.
Crafted from high quality 12oz denim, they come in a loose fit that tapers from the knee to ensure they feel relaxed and comfortable, not sloppy. We see these becoming our weekend go-tos once the weather turns.
Available at ASOS, priced £110.

 

3. Antioch Black Ripped Skinny Jeans

Prepare to relive your grungy teenage phase thanks to these jeans by London-based menswear label Antioch.
By adding rips and cuts to a simple pair of black skinnies, the brand has embraced the days of long fringes and obscure band tees, while keeping things fresh and modern with a slimline silhouette.
Available at Topman, priced £48.

 

4. AllSaints Keiko Cigarette Jeans

Edgy British brand AllSaints has taken a pared-back approach to its signature Cigarette jeans this season, opting for minimal fading and just two slashes to the knees.
With such subtle distressing, these are easily dressed up with a button-down shirt, leather jacket and Chelsea boots for a night out.
Available at AllSaints, priced £98.

 

5. Levi’s 1969 606 Highlander Jeans

Even Levi’s can’t resist getting in on the action, and the heritage denim label is well placed to take on the trend with its Vintage 606 model.
At the time of being introduced in the 1960s, it was considered to be the first skinny jean style in production. The streamlined silhouette remains the same today, finished off with a lone rip to the knee.
Available at Levi’s, priced £165.

 

6. Cheap Monday Tight Rip Black Jeans

Renowned for its affordable skinny jeans, Swedish label Cheap Monday has slashed the knees on its signature fit for autumn/winter 2015.
Cut from over-dyed black stretch denim, the five pocket style also features antique finish rivets and buttons for a vintage feel.
Available at Cheap Monday, priced £55.

 

7. Diesel Tepphar 0830K Carrot Jeans

Diesel’s Tepphar jeans are destroyed in all the right ways. In addition to looking like they’ve gained their rips from a few hard days’ work, the low crotch and short front fly gives them a relaxed, authentic finish.
Slip on with a plain tee and leather boots for an everyday workerwear aesthetic.
Available at Diesel, priced £220.

 

8. Zara Ripped Jeans

If you’re worried about feeling the chill while sporting holes, seek out a pair with ripped panels – like this pair from Zara.
The cutouts are backed with black fabric, offering the same distressed effect without revealing any skin. We’re also fond of the washed out grey shade, which works perfectly alongside an autumnal colour palette.
Available at Zara, priced £39.99.

 

9. Dr Denim Snap Light Stone Destroyed Jeans

Family-owned label Dr Denim has been turning out stylish and affordable jeans since 2004.
The Swedish firm’s take on ripped jeans is no different with a sharp drainpipe leg and bold slices to the knees resulting in a solid wardrobe go-to for the coming months. The unisex Snap style can also be sized up for a more relaxed fit.
Available at Dr Denim, priced £50.

 

10. ASOS Skinny Jeans with Knee Rips

White jeans in winter are almost guaranteed to get a little bit dirty and beaten up, so start the ball rolling with this pre-ripped pair from ASOS’ in-house design team.
The frayed detailing adds to the effortless vibe, while the stretch denim guarantees comfort and a snug fit.
Available at ASOS, priced £28.

How To Buy Entry-level Luxury Goods

Aspiration is little solace in the face of a red-nudging bank balance. Though what exactly goes into a luxury object’s eye-watering price tag is unclear, trust that it’s not just parts and labour. But before you look up kidney prices on eBay, know that you can buy into your favourite brand on a budget.

From the entry-level garments that mark the brand at its best, to affordable accessories, or the diffusion line with a distinct identity beyond ‘cut-price’, these are the pieces that get you behind the velvet rope. Without shaking out your pockets first.

Acne Studios – College Sweatshirt

Sweatshirts are probably the thing that Acne Studios do better than anything else. Not only do they encapsulate the brand’s ethos of easy wearability but they also express that peculiarly Scandinavian, less is more approach to dressing.

The college sweatshirt is the key buy here; it comes in a range of colours but only one classic fit. Best of all you can wear it with pretty much anything.

Available at Mr Porter, priced £130.

Saint Laurent – Cross Bracelet

Saint Laurent has rock ‘n’ roll running through its veins, but key pieces from Hedi Slimane’s collections (leather trousers and Cuban heeled boots) are hard for most people to pull off, both aesthetically and financially.

This delicate leather bracelet is subtle enough to work with most outfits but distinctive enough to obviously be part of Hedi’s rock ‘n’ roll legacy.

Available at MATCHESFASHION.COM, priced £85.

AMI – Breton Top

Classic French fashion staples exist somewhere beyond the realm of trends and therefore remain perpetually stylish.

While Alexendre Matiussi might be most famous for his AMI logo interpretation of the tricolour, this simple Breton top is even more French than red, white and blue stripes andscores you a versatile wardrobe staple. All for under £100.

Pair it with jeans and trainers for the ultimate in off-duty chic.

Available at Mr Porter, priced £95.

Gucci – Belt

Gucci’s most recent, 1970s-inspired collection was good enough to draw comparisons to Tom Ford’s tenure at the brand. In fact, Gucci look set to reclaim their position at the top of the fashion food chain, in part thanks to an ostentatious approaching to branding.

It’s not one for anyone who lives for understated dressing; buying into Gucci means logos, logos and more logos. That makes the clever choice a belt with interlocking Gs – a classic Gucci item reimagined for the current nostalgia trip.

Available at MATCHESFASHION.COM, priced £190.

Maison Kitsuné – Parisien T-Shirt

The record label-cum-fashion house has turned reworking preppy classics into an art form.

If you’re not French then Maison Kitsuné are here to help you pretend that you are, with a handy slogan declaring yourself a ‘Parisien’. If you paid attention in French class you might just be able to pull this one off. It’s Americana, but with a dash of Gallic humour.

Available at MATCHESFASHION.COM, priced £47.

Comme Des Garçons – PLAY Converse

In the last few years the designer collab trainer has become an industry unto itself. With some team-ups pushing prices into the nosebleed hundreds, the element of affordability has seemingly been abandoned.

Thankfully, the ubiquitous Converse is collaborating with avant-garde Japanese label Comme Des Garçons. The PLAY label’s ‘heart with eyes’ logo has become iconic in its own right, but it’s never looked better than it does on the side of a Chuck Taylor.

Available at Selfridges, priced £84.99.

Bottega Veneta – Card Holder

Few brands revel in unabashed luxury like Bottega Veneta. The Italian brand has become synonymous with intrecciato leather, an ancient technique of weaving thin strips of leather together to form a new textured material.

This lengthy and time-consuming process means that the end product is always expensive, but to get some Bottega Veneta into your wardrobe the best bet is with a wallet or card holder. Which will at least leave you something to store inside it.

Available at Mr Porter, priced £170.